Garment construction



1966 R. L. BEARD ETAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed July 23, 1964 Nov. 1, 1966 R. L. BEARD ETAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 25, 1964 ATTORNE'KE United States Patent 3,281,863 GARMENT CGNSTRUCTION Ralph L. Beard and James Fred Hester, Winston-Salem, N.C., assignors to ll-lanes Corporation, Winston-Salem, N.C., a corporation of North Carolina Filed July 23, 1964, Ser. No. 384,625 11 Claims. (Cl. 2-113) This invention relates to knitted garment construction, and more particularly to a collarette construction for the neck opening of knitted garments of the slip-over type. While not necessarily limited to any specific garment, the invention is probably most useful in knitted garments of the type commonly referred to as T-shirts, and has proved to be extremely useful in the new oval neck T-shirts which are now appearing on the market.

In the manufacture of T-shirts and related slip-over garments, it is a common practice to form the body of the garment from a section of knitted tubular material. A neck opening is cut in the material and this opening is finished by applying to the body of the garment what is commonly called a collarette. The collarette is ordinarily made of a 1 x 1 rib knit material, the material being passed through a folding machine and doubled back upon itself to provide two layers before being applied to the garment. As applied to the garment the two layers are disposed on opposite sides of the garment body material, and the free edge of the outer layer is turned under and stitched to the garment so as not to leave a raw edge outwardly of the garment. The lower edge of the inner layer is commonly left with a raw edge, and this inner raw edge is substantially covered by cro-ws-foot stitching which attaches the collarette to the garment body.

In such garments, particularly T-shirts, repeated wearing and washing often result in the neck opening or collarette becoming permanently distorted because of stretching, sagging or bulging. Substantial improvements have been made over the years, but these disadvantages still persist in varying degrees. Quite often proposed designs minimized the distortion problem, but substantially impaired the appearance of the garment or raised the cost of the garment so as to render it non-competitive.

Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to provide a neck or collarette construction which is durable, yet neat and attractive, and which will retain its shape and size after repeated washing and wearing, but which can be constructed at a reduction in cost as compared to other constructions which attempt to achieve the same or similar characteristics.

It is a further object of this invention to provide such a neck or collarette construction which can be formed into an elongated oval shape that willv not sag, "bulge, or become a distorted V neck at its lower extremity.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a neck or collarette construction which achieves the foregoing objects through the application of a reinforcing strip of material which is relatively inelastic.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a neck or collarette construction which is exceptionally strong and durable and which lessens the strain on seams through the use of multiple folds or layers of body material, collarette material, and relatively inelastic reinforcement material, which absorb the strains resulting from use and laundering.

It is yet a further object of this invention to provide a neck or collarette construction in which a relatively inelastic reinforcing material is folded lengthwise and located inside the similarly folded relatively elastic collarette material, so as to provide both lateral and vertical support for the collarette.

Finally, it is an object of this invention to provide a neck or collarette construction according to the preced- 3,281,863 Patented Nov. l, 1966 ice ing paragraph wherein one layer of body material and two layers of reinforcement material extend throughout and inside the collarette material of the garment, the outer layer of the collarette material being folded under one layer of the reinforcement material and retained in position by two rows of sewing thread.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear from the description, the accompanying drawings, and the appended claims.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a front view of a garment having an oval neck opening incorporating the invention;

FIGURE 2 is an enlarged fragmentary face view of the neck portion of the garment;

FIGURE 3 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view of a first embodiment of the invention, the structure being shown in perspective from the front side of the garment; and

FIGURES 46 are views similar to FIGURE 3 of three further embodiments of the invention.

Referring to FIGURES 1-3 inclusive, the body of the garment is shown at 1, and may be formed from any conventional and suitable material, such as fiat knit fabric, jersey, etc. This material is usually knitted in tubular form and cut into appropriate tubular lengths to form the bodies of individual garments. The body is provided with a finished lower edge 2, and sleeves 3 are suitably attached to opposite sides of the upper end of the garment body. The body of the garment is cut away in the usual manner at its upper extremity to form a neck opening which is generally designated 4 in FIGURES 1 and 2. This general manner of construction is conventional.

The neck opening 4 is visibly framed 'by a strip of collarette material generally designated 5, which is folded longitudinally to form inner and outer layers 5a and 5b. This collarette material may be of any suitable construction, probably a 1 x 1 rib knit material being most advantageous in the case of T-shirts. As shown in FIG- URE 3, the lower portion of the outer layer 5b is preferably folded inwardly as at 8 to form a folded portion 9. In the embodiment shown in FIGURES 2 and 3, the lower edge of the inner layer 5a is left raw and is secured by stitching in a manner to be further described hereinafter.

In accordance with the embodiment shown in FIG- URES 2 and 3, the edge of the body fabric 1 extends unwardly between the layers 5a and 5b substantially to the longitudinal fold in the collarette strip 5. A reinforcing strip 7 is folded longitudinally substantially in the same manner as the collarette strip 5 so as to form layers which straddle the edge area of the body fabric and which lie between the body fabric 1 and the collarette strip layers 5a and 5b. The lower edge of the outer layer of the reinforcing strip 7 is received in the space formed by the fold S in layer 5b. Lines of stitching 6 pass through the lower portions of the collarette strip 5, the reinforcing strip 7, and the body fabric 1 to complete the assembly. As shown in FIGURE 2, crows-foot stitching is used so as to prevent fraying of the raw edge of layer 5a. This type of stitching is well known in the art, and possesses a high degree of flexibility longitudinally of the rows, as pointed out in US. Patent 2,728,080, which is owned by the assignee of the instant invention.

In manufacture, the collarette strip 5 and the reinforcing strip 7 can be folded and combined in a single folding machine and applied to the neck opening of the body 1 for subsequent sewing. A convenient type of folding machine utilizes two passages which combine the two strips in flat form, a folding section for forming the fold 8, and a folding section for forming the main longitudinal folds in the two strips. However, various forms of suitable machines will be apparent to those skilled in the art,

J and the particular form which may be adopted forms no part of this invention.

While any of several fabrics can be used to form the various components of the complete assembly, the reinforcing fabric preferably is relatively less elastic than the material used for the collarette strip 5. For instance, when the collarette strip is formed from a rib knit fabric, the reinforcing strip may be formed of a less elastic rib structure fabric or of a flat knitted fabric. In a particularly satisfactory T-shirt construction, the body fabric is a fiat knit or jersey structure, the collarette strip fabric is a 1 x 1 rib knit structure, and the reinforcing strip fabric is of the same or substantially the same structure as the body fabric. When the reinforcing strip s formed from the body fabric, the strip can be cut longitudinally or transversely of the knitted tube depending upon whether the particular application calls for a less elastic or a more elastic reinforcing strip.

Modified forms of the invention are shown in FIG- URES 4, 5 and 6, wherein prime numbers are used to designate corresponding elements and features. The embodiment of FIGURE 4 differs from the previously described embodiment in that the edge portion of the body fabric 1 is folded back upon itself to form a folded portion 11 which lies directly above the folded portion 9' of the collarette strip. In the embodiment of FIGURE 5, the inner layer 5a" of the collarette strip is folded at 8a to receive the lower portion of the inner layer of the reinforcing strip 7", thus rendering the assembly substantially identical on opposite sides of the body fabric. The embodiment of FIGURE 6 is in effect a combination of the individual features of FIGURES 4 and 5. These latter three embodiments result in a somewhat firmer neck structure than the first embodiment, assuming that identical materials are used.

Garments embodying the instant invention have proved to be very satisfactory in tests and in actual wearing and laundering. The multiple layers of body material, collarette material and reinforcing material, assembled as shown in any of the previously described embodiments, have exhibited exceptional strength and durability, as well as a marked resistance to sagging, bulging, or other distortions. These layers or folds serve also apparently to absorb the strain on seams which normally is caused by use and laundering, and the relatively inelastic reinforcing strip provides both lateral and vertical support to the assembly. It will be apparent also that the improved functional features have been achieved without effecting any substantial change in the outward appearance of the garment. By folding the reinforcing strip in substantially the same manner as the outer collarette strip, and by securing the reinforcing strip with the original stitching, apparently any tendency of the reinforcing strip to shift or curl relative to the outer collarette strip is precluded, which shifting or curling might be expected in the case of a single thickness of reinforcing strip. Finally, it will be apparent that the assembly according to the invention can be manufactured without substantial additional expense since no additional sewing operations are required, and since the reinforcing strip can be fed to the neck opening in combination with the outer collarette strip.

Having described the invention in the manner required by the patent statutes, We wish it to be understood that the foregoing disclosure is illustrative rather than definitive, and that the scope of the invention is defined by the subjoined claims interpreted in the light of the specification and drawings.

We claim:

1. A collar edge construction for a knitted garment, comprising: a knitted fabric body portion having an edge defining an opening, a first strip of knitted fabric material having a longitudinally extending first fold therein to form inner and outer layers, said inner and outer layers being disposed on opposite faces of said body portion so as to have said first fold lie substantially parallel to the edge of said body portion, the lower edge portion of said outer layer being folded inwardly upon itself so as to form a second fold extending substantially parallel to said first fold, and a reinforcing strip of fabric having a third longitudinally extending fold therein to form inner and outer layers, said reinforcing strip being situated inwardly of said first strip so as to have said first and third folds adjacent and substantially parallel to each other, said inner layer of said reinforcing strip lying against the inner face of said body portion, the lower edge of the outer layer of said reinforcing strip being adjacent and substantially parallel to said second fold and lying between the folded portions of said outer layer of said first strip, said first strip and said reinforcing strip being fixed to said body portion by stitching.

2. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 1 wherein said stitching passes successively through said outer layer of said first strip, said outer layer of said reinforcing strip, the inwardly folded portion of said outer layer of said first strip, said fabric body portion, said inner layer of said reinforcing strip, and said inner layer of said first strip.

3. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 1 wherein the edge of said fabric body portion lies adjacent said third fold.

4. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 1 wherein said first strip is formed of fabric which is relatively elastic in the direction of said first fold, and said reinforcing strip is formed of material which is relatively inelastic in the direction of said third fold.

5. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 4 wherein said first strip is formed from a rib knit fabric and said reinforcing strip is formed of a flat knit fabric.

6. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 1 wherein said fabric body portion is folded back upon itself substantially parallel to its edge, the fold in said body portion being adjacent to and substantially parallel to said third fold.

7. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 1 wherein said inner layer of said first strip is folded in wardly upon itself so as to have the inwardly folded portion lie between said fabric body portion and said inner layer of said reinforcing strip.

8. A collar edge construction as set forth in claim 7 wherein said fabric body portion is folded back upon itself parallel to and in the vicinity of the edge defining said neck opening, the fold in said body portion being adjacent to and substantially parallel to said third fold.

9. A garment construction comprising a body of knitted fabric cut away centrally at the top thereof to form a neck opening, a first strip of knitted fabric material having a longitudinal fold forming inner and outer layers, one of which lies inwardly of said body adjacent said neck opening and the other of which lies outwardly of said body adjacent said neck opening, said fold being substantially parallel and adjacent to the edge of said neck opening, the outer layer of said first strip being folded inwardly upon itself adjacent its lower edge to form a receiving space, a folded strip of reinforcing material having inner and outer layers extending on opposite sides of said body from said neck opening between said body and the respective layers of said first strip, the outer edge of the outer layer of said reinforcing strip extending into said receiving space, and at least'one row of stitching fixing said first strip and said reinforcing strip to each other and to said body.

10. A garment construction according to claim 8 wherein said body, said first strip and said reinforcing strip are formed from knitted frabic, said reinforcing strip being relatively less elastic than said first strip.

11. A garment construction according to claim 10 wherein said body and said reinforcing strip are formed from a fiat knitted fabric, and said first strip is formed from a 1 x 1 rib knitted fabric.

(References on following page) 6 References Cited by the Examiner 2,136,889 11/ 1938 Richards 2--274 X 5335838 121122? a??? 7/1897 Eighrnie 2-127 1/1924 Hughes 112-419 X 5 PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner. 1 1927 B k 3 RICHARD J SCANLAN J E 8/1935 Carmichael et a1. 112-419 X 

1. A COLLAR EDGE CONSTRUCTION FOR A KNITTED GARMENT, COMPRISING: A KNITTED FABRIC BODY PORTION HAVING AN EDGE DEFINING AN OPENING, A FIRST STRIP OF KNITTED FABRIC MATERIAL HAVING A LONGITUDINALLY EXTENDING FIRST FOLD THEREIN TO FORM INNER AND OUTER LAYERS, SAID INNER AND OUTER LAYERS BEING DISPOSED ON OPPOSITE FACES OF SAID BODY PORTION SO AS TO HAVE SAID FIRST FOLD LIE SUBSTANTIALLY PARALLEL TO THE EDGE OF SAID BODY PORTION, THE LOWER EDGE PORITON OF SAID OUTER LAYER BEING FOLDED INWARDLY UPON ITSELF SO AS TO FORM A SECOND FOLD EXTENDING SUBSTANTIALLY PARALLEL TO SAID FIRST FOLD, AND A REINFORCING STRIP OF FABRIC HAVING A THIRD LONGITUDINALLY EXTENDING FOLD THEREIN TO FORM INNER AND OUTER LAYERS, SAID REINFORCING STRIP BEING SITUATED IN WARDLY OF SAID FIRST STRIP SO AS TO HAVE SAID FIRST AND THIRD FOLDS ADJACENT AND SUBSTANTIALLY PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER, SAID INNER LAYER OF SAID REINFORCING STRIP LYING AGAINST THE INNER FACE OF SAID BODY PORTION, THE LOWER EDGE OF THE OUTER LAYER OF SAID REINFORCING STRIP BEING ADJACENT AND SUBSTANTIALLY PARALLEL TO SAID SECOND FOLD AND LYING BETWEEN THE FOLDED PORTIONS OF SAID OUTER LAYER OF SAID FIRST STRIP, SAID FIRST STRIP AND SAID REINFORCING STRIP BEING FIXED TO SAID BODY PORTION BY STITCHING. 